Fashion Children's Play Garden: You sing and stop me on the stage. Closer fan 2017FW Shanghai Fashion Week plays a big secret!

Women's and Women's Women's Words. Legislative arch. "Women can top half the sky." Leftover daughter to be married. From ancient times to the present, we do not know how many societies we have heard about women's moral values ​​and ideas. In 2017, when feminism revitalized around the world, when we look back at the vast cloud of the past, we will find that women are the vassal of the society dominated by men. This logic of corruption is still entrenched. Can you decide for yourself? Why do you need to settle me?

The secret fan has been committed to restoring the order of history through the medium of clothes, and then affecting today’s life and releasing more possibilities. Here, the dense fan goes deep into the traditional culture’s true attitude toward “yin and yang” and eventually finds it in the end of the Peking opera “Dan Pei” that sprouted 100 years ago—the man-dominated and male-female-shaped figure. A "Spirit children's play" secret, for the new woman's whereabouts. The fan autumn and winter 2017 series 4.7 was officially released at Shanghai Fashion Week. After repairing the "Music Garden" in Shanghai, you listened to me slowly.

Secret fan 2017 autumn and winter "fashion children's play park" conference

To absorb traditions in fashion, it is not a blunt copy of totems or elements. In this season, the sex fanaticism seen in the Peking Opera and his “Men-Dan” art has two aspects: First, when male actors dominate the stage, how the female character “Dan Jiao” is molded and how it is used in the future. Following the example of "a male figure", the second is the role of a female figure in a play and how she could potentially be turned into a puppet of male rights and politics.

The fans read many of the Beijing Opera repertoire, and Mei Lanfang and “Four Famous People” featured the “Farewell My Concubine”, “Mu Guiying's Commander”, “Long Feng Ching Cheung”, “Drunken Masters” and “The Five Flower Caves”, etc. A number of classics are cited, and the secret fan re-examines the old costumes, absorbs them, disassembles them, and compares them with the real female act of “children's play,” and translates them into profiles, structures and elements. Reshaping a real feminine aspect.

Thick fan 2017 autumn and winter total look

The high-waisted narrow skirt of "Tian Nv San Hua", the ribbons and long sleeves in "Luo Shen" made the sleeves more sacred, or the gorgeous rose lining Yang Guiyan was intoxicated even when he was intoxicated, or "Wuhua Cave." The geometric color blocks in the book are as deceptive as the true and false Pan Jinlian. Mei Lanfang had revised the costumes when he improved the horns. The fan designer Han Wen explored it in depth, playing in the old drama that had appeared on the stage many times. After the clothes were dismantled, the dense fan discovered the unique structural details of the costume itself, such as the use of snap fasteners and knots for connection and fixation. Therefore, in addition to the use of zippers, this series has been replaced with snaps and knots to construct a combination of outer and inner layers of clothing.

This season also has a waistband design worn by underwear, citing the Mei’s intention to modify the female curve, but at the same time it is applied to materials with pioneering features, such as rubber and leather, with a sense of purpose and revealing provocation.

Swordsman is the role of Peking Opera in the late Qing Dynasty. It also marks the shift in the positioning of women on the stage. In this exploration, Han Wen discovered that the wide-shouldered design is also a special feature of the costumes of the Damascus. Therefore, he combined wide shoulders in the profile of the season. But this is not the introduction of western shoulder-pad techniques. It actually uses the old fan's skeleton to support it. Another part of the rotator cuff is derived from the deduction of the state of the stage curtain hanging. Among these detailed structures, it seems that it will lead to the association of western fashion appearances. When compared with the origin of the design, it is also a matter of today. Confusion speculation.

A major element throughout the season is the heart-shaped armor embroidered with the words “INFANTRY GIRL”. The English body is inlaid with precious stones. It symbolizes “infantry girl” and is also an English interpretation of the characters of the Beijing Opera “Wu Dan”. This ingenious thought is the transformation of the shield used by Mu Guiying's Commander. The heroine of the people in the eyes of the people once was the ideological sustenance before the clarion call of “Women Can Top the Sky”, but it still does not depart from men’s rights. Consciousness of Survival - Han Wen skillfully translated this weapon symbol, pointing out that the true feminine spirit is the shield of "self".

One of this season's code: INFANTRY GIRL

Longfeng Longfeng is a monarch and queen, and later becomes the symbol of gender equality and yin and yang. However, "Feng" is the first totem of the Chu people. It symbolizes the truth, perfection, and beauty. In fact, there is no gender. In the aftermath of the fall of the country, the north occupied the commanding position. The "dragon" became a symbol of the imperial power, and thus the phoenix became a subordinate to the dragon. Han Wen discovered that in the Beijing Opera, the core of this ancient distortion has existed. For example, “Dragon and Phoenix” demonstrates the twists and turns of Sun Shangxiang, the sister of Liu Quan, who won Sun Quan in the Three Kingdoms, or “Wuhuandong” was once the repertoire of the “Four Famous Danes” who had gathered many times to perform together. "Mand-female form" is a stylized performance in this drama. At the same time, the name of the slut of "Pan Jinlian" is a brilliant feudal prism. It all turns into a fan of the season.

Five sets of classic costumes from "Farewell My Concubine", "Mu Guiying's Commander", "Long Feng Ching Cheung", "Drunken Master" and "Wuhua Dong" "Dan" were divided into pieces. All of them are packaged in PVC clothes and can be freely disassembled. All of them are reconstructed into a complete costume. In the lining of the clothing, there is also a poster drawing of the drama. The model's hand raised bags, the traditional Longfeng Pavilion reinterpreted by Pop, will be old and playful, but also an alternative metaphor of the Dragon and Phoenix. In addition, a special Peking Opera artist is required to reproduce Mei Lanfang's classical gesture orchid fingers, using 3d technology to achieve the shape of the line, covered with traditional gold and silver paint, turned into a bright accessory this season.

Accessories this season: Longfengge bags and pendants made in 3D

Returning to the origins of this “Music Garden”, as Lu Xun, the first poisonous tongue in the Republic of China, said, “In China, only such an “artist” works are permanent... In China, the most universal, greatest and most permanent art It is a man who dresses as a woman.” Mandala-dominated stage is a division of male-dominated society and culture. Later, female-in-law follows the example of “male-female-female-form”. In the interpretation of the spirit of "Spiritual Children's Play", the masculine fabrics such as suits, tweeds, plaids, and quilted jackets were used to create a multi-level soft silhouette. Some coats and skirts were To give more freedom of expression, to meet different ways of disintegration and reorganization, intent on passing through the multiple possibilities of fashion, onto the way of wearing not bound and defined.

A variety of wear methods are applicable this season, and different look combinations are also possible, redefines the degree of freedom that fashion wears.

The traditional ambiguity of contemporary design, but simply copying elements does not really succeed. This time, the dense fan in the pattern does not stylistically extrapolate popular faces such as facial expressions and clothing, but uses the script as a basis to draw posters. It also creates old movies that resemble the “Music Garden” in the late Qing Dynasty. Re-delineating the image of Yang Guixi and assigning it to the tail of the dragon, overthrowing the Ya-Yuan Yang Yuhuan of the Mei School's "Drunken Royal Tea", revealing the original ambivalence of the old imperial concubine in court struggle.

Some of the details of the fan season extended many crafts, re-creating Peking opera face

Image special thanks_林剑

From clothing to makeup and hair, the secret fan has been meticulously restoring and deconstructing the signs of Peking Opera's “Dan Fook” male cast. For the imitation of women's bangs, and to improve the tough face of the "patch", to hide the male feet, imitating the female three-inch golden lotus "hi-hat", or to make the top three slim figure is slim "line tail" - these In the Peking Opera Corner, he used to make up for male deficiencies and was subsequently imitated by his son-in-law. The compact fan transforms the paradigm of these male plastic female figures with new shapes. The narrow ears of the two ears, the thick-soled shoes, or the retouched patch hairstyles are used to impose irony on the secondary construction. The outline of the eyebrows is also a simplified evolution of the western transvestites.

This season's second-degree conversion of the final line, tail face, and patch in the male costume of the Beijing Opera

The "Music Opera" sprouted at the Shanghai Concession in the late Qing Dynasty. This piece of debris hidden behind the four famous celebrities, but staged the female consciousness on the edge of the male-dominated stage. This time, from clothing to the entire show, the fans are focused on building a true return of femininity and laying out this historical context. Just like the opening scene of the entire show—the sound of Kaiming’s drumming, the characters who had hidden their faces played back and forth, except for the identifiable costumes, movements, and tune that made people realize that this was a Peking opera. This is a video created by the German motion picture artist Tobias Gremmler. It is drawn from the body and gender of the actors. The ups and downs of the character's emotions can still be scrutinized - the Beijing Opera's stylized performance consisting of costumes, styling, physique, and singing. The minutes of the video are really visible.

The secret fan chief designer Han Wen brings Huang Ling to call the curtain: The secret fan also built a space-time object to the theater.

As Nova Heart's bursts of drums began to rise gradually, the dense fan “Music Garden” officially set off. Nova Heart once combined the Kunqu and rock music with a blurred tone in Meng Jinghui’s “Linchuan Four Dreams”. This time in the “Music Garden” blending the rhythms of Peking Opera, he hummed the way to the mystery of the old and the new things. The trials.

And on the stage where Nova Heart is located, a piece of stone carving Collins stigma remains erected on this stage - this is due to the aftermath of ancient Greek architecture, like the response from Western theaters. On the other side, the common flying cymbals of Chinese classical architecture are suspended. On the screen wall, the simplified form is also a silhouette of an ancient Chinese stage. This image mirrors the stage and becomes a metaphorical window in the dense fan show. When Nova Heart triumphed, it seemed that the whole show was going to be over and over, but in the usual serial drama of the Beijing opera “You sing on my debut,” the yarn-weaving production made it look like a singer, Huang Ling’s age, sing.

Huang Ling dressed in a fan autumn and winter 2017, and sing "Phoenix Yu Fei"

As the "big axis show" of this erotic playhouse, in the song "Phoenix Yufei" which is praised as the "sound chanting on the stage" by Huang Ling, the big show ended successfully. Huang Ling was deeply influenced by Zhou Yan and Teresa Teng, who were young and young, and they feel that the soft beauty is the same. During the performance in the United States last year, Huang Ling was dressed in a dense fan-like cheongsam cheongsam, singing praise from US lawmakers and all Chinese fans. The dense fan clothing and the unique Oriental sound of Huang Ling coexist in harmony, fashion and music in the traditional and contemporary, gender awareness, when it is the same path. When Huang Ling sang a song, the models also reappeared. At this time, they were spectators.

The final inkfall of the big show was a deliberate attempt to cast back hundreds of years ago. Once again, the secret fan called "The Puppet Show" again, and it is necessary to use this prism scattered on the male-dominated stage to imagine the appearance of the present-day "Music Garden". leading. This "dominant" meaning is not only suppressed by male power, but also does not please men, has absolute self and female consciousness. Because of this, in Huang Ling's chanting, the model returned to the scene and the “corner change” was the audience. The seats on both sides of the T stage are always covered with a mysterious veil during the entire catwalk—they are drawn with various profiles of the Qing Dynasty seats. The scene of the Fairy Garden Theater Park emerged here.

The seats around these show stations also carry the feminine speculation code of the season.

Today's fashion children lifted the white cloth of the seat and made the classic sana chair visible. This is also a point of view from the east to the west. Just like the table and chair in the Beijing Opera props “Make at the end”, the simple Mongolian cloth tables and chairs often form the usual scene of a play, and the Zhanna No. 14 chair (Thonet Nr. 14) As the prototype of modernist design in the early 20th century, it has remained in thousands of households and public places. It has also entered China at the end of the Qing Dynasty, becoming the seat of the three-inch Jinlian women. Quba, kicking down the symbol of the vassal of the millennium, closed this season's metaphorical performance metaphor.

The “Fashion Children's Play Garden” is a dense fan. From a more macroscopic field, from props to sceneries, there are also nodes between east and west and between new and old. In this way, to feminism The country’s whereabouts are given.

This time, another famous Chinese graphic designer Liu Zhizhi and his studio entered the ban. They specially customized the “NEW UGLY” style of primary vision and derivatives. The video lab DATESE Studio directed the video of the entire show. In the 1990s, family photography was used to guide the retro live broadcast (retro video live, please read the original video). The scenes seen here are difficult to distinguish between men and women, and blur the boundaries between new and old. The big show will also feature iF's award-winning “Bamboo” umbrella series from the old paradise umbrella, and Wang Xingji, an old fan with more than 100 years of history, will be accompanied by dense fans to bring a time-honored gift.

The famous designer Liu Zhizhi and his stand-in forbidden studio specially designed this master show

UF's award-winning “Bamboo” Umbrella Series with umbrella

The star-studded brand, Wang Xingji, who has more than 100 years of history, has joined hands with the dense fan to custom-design traditional bamboo fans, while giving new totems.

Secret fan backstage with Han Yu

The fans of the Autumn/Winter 2017 series took a comeback from the clothes to the field to create a brand new hop for today’s “Blonde”: in this “worldly” equalizer, they have absolutely Self and women consciously sing their own drama. FOR ALL THE INFANTRY GIRLS!